Rural Newfoundland

Bread Pudding

Newfoundlanders, like everyone else, like something sweet to follow up a meal.  While in my time, store bought things were available, not so many years before, access to store bought sweets, or packaged items was a rarity.  As necessity is the mother of invention, scarcity is the mother of improvisation, and people found ways to make do.

A favorite treat growing up was bread custard, or bread pudding.  If there’s a a difference I don’t know what it is, I grew up using the terms interchangeably.  But its essentially bread crumbs, milk, eggs and sugar I believe  mixed together and baked in the oven.  Served with a home made brown sugar sauce, or blueberry sauce, it was a yummy end to a traditional Newfoundland meal.

If anyone has pictures or a recipe or both, let me know, I’ll add to this post!

Up, Down, Out, Over the road

It may be prevalent elsewhere, but one thing Newfoundlander’s know is that distance isn’t measured in miles or kilometers, its measured in time.  How far to St. John’s? 2 hours.  Gander? Hour and a half. If you don’t do it in those times, then you’re obviously driving too slow.

One other thing we have is how we point out communities and locations on the way.  Back home, Apsey Brook was at the end of the road, so we of course had to go “up” the road to go anywhere, and everyone knew coming from that direction you were coming up.  A confusing side effect of this was that Snook’s Harbour meets at the bottom of three hills or grades, and so that portion is of course named “bottom”.  It was always amusing to see CFAs (come from aways) confusion when we said we were going up to bottom.  Of course, since the road took a 90 degree turn there, we had to go “over” to Elliott’s Cove.

Going to school was down to Hickman’s, and if we went shopping we went up to Clarenville. It all makes perfect sense, no?  Then again we also had to deal with going out the arm, out the sound, in to town, and so on and so on.  Yet we all knew which was which, and if someone got it backwards (like maybe me now, is it out to town? or in? I keep forgetting?) god help them for the fun making about to be heaped on them.

Anyway, was always fun to head up to bottom and play ball, and then run over to the store to get a snack.  If you get a chance, pick me up something while you’re over :).

The Swizzle

Back not so long ago, after I was technically “grown up” (yeah right, as if that’ll ever happen), my buddy Bernard had a Sega Genesis.  Like a lot of things in rural Newfoundland of the like, it didn’t necessarily have a steady place in any home though, as it was always borrowed by somebody, lots of times that somebody being me.

My favorite game on it was called Landstalker, an RPG that I played for hours, and cursed the zone known as Greenmaze over and over.  This was before the internet, and figuring out how to play and finish the game was done all by yourself or with friends.

But the best memories of playing the Genesis were over at my cousin and friend Derek’s house.  We’d have it hooked up to the old floor model TV, and a group of us would take turns playing PGA European Tour Golf.  Usually it was Derek, Eric, Cory Avery and I, and we’d play for hours.  But the thing I remember most, other than Derek tilting the controller trying to make the ball turn, is Cory’s exclamations.  “Look at him swizzle that one in there!”, “Watch me swizzle this one boys!”.  It became part of our vocabulary (reminds me, will have to tell you about the word “git” sometime) from then on, anytime we’d try to make something work, or fit, or really even go somewhere, we were swizzling it.

Would be fun to have it hooked up now and share a beer with the boys and try to swizzle a few shots in!

Jiggs Dinner

I’ve been told that the term “dinner” is used to reference the main meal of the day.  Back home in Newfoundland, that was traditionally the midday meal especially for fisherman, who had been out in boat since 4am.  The evening meal was usually lighter and called supper.   This carried over for most everyone, and we all called the midday meal dinner in school and elsewhere, even though for commuters, the supper meal was the bigger meal.  On Sunday though, midday dinner was usually the feast meal of the week, and that feast was usually Jiggs Dinner.

Jiggs Dinner was made up of all the traditional Newfoundland vegetables  boiled up with salt beef.  Salt beef sounds disgusting to some I know, but og my god, its like ambrosia for the initiated!  Missing from our dinner on the left is peas pudding.  Yellow peas boiled up with the rest of the vegetables in a cloth bag.  I never liked the stuff, so perhaps there’s more of a secret to it than that :).

Accompanying Jiggs Dinner was some sort of “roast”.  Nowadays, chicken or beef from the store is more usual, but back home, it would likely have been

Rabbit and Chicken in the pot, lots of onions.

Rabbit and Chicken in the pot, lots of onions.

moose, caribou, a duck or, as seen here, rabbit.  Whatever the meat, traditional Newfoundland roast was smothered in onions.  And the coup d’etat was the gravy.  The secret to the gravy was to add some of the vegetable juice to the meat drippings, make a flour and water thickening, and of course, add the Cross and Blackwell gravy browning.

After dinner, dad would likely help with the dishes, and then head off for a nap as the post meal coma would kick in.  Later that evening, we’d have the left overs potato made into potato, mustard and beet salads along with pickles, beets and cold meats, and perhaps some Kam to make a cold plate for our Sunday supper.

The Milkman

I know cities had the early morning milkman where you’d leave the bottles on the step, and get the fresh in return.  But that’s not quite how it worked back home.  I really don’t know if it was common practice for there to be a milkman in rural areas, but back home up until he retired anyway, we had a visit twice weekly from one.

While he drove a Central Dairies truck, it wasn’t only milk and milk products he sold, he also had sausages, honey buns, snacks, eggs and more.  I forget what days he came, but as kids I remember two main things.  The first was that he always had an extended visit with Ralph Smith.  Living where we did, we could keep an eye up the road and be prepared with cash when he arrived. I remember him bringing a basket of assorted products up to our front door, and once we had picked out our items, he’d look up slightly and come up with a price. He had this big old wallet on a chain, full of change and he’d count out your change after.

That leads me to my second big memory of him.  As kids hanging out, when he’d come round, we’d often gather round the truck and buy snacks from him.  Mini blueberry pies, bars, milkshakes.  One day up in Snook’s Harbour, when he came by, we gathered round and Eric picked up two milkshakes.  The milkman looked up and paused and said 1.25.  Eric looked at him incredulously and said, “What!? Are they 62 and a half cents each?”

I really don’t remember the response, as I choked and started coughing and sputtering on my own milkshake.

Trick or Valentine?

Happy Valentines day to all who happen to drop by here.  While Valentine’s day is based upon the feast of St. Valentine, its become more of a commercial exploitation, in my opinion at least, to profess your love with commercial items.  Be that as it may, it still is a warm feeling to surprise those you love.

As kids we exchanged valentines at school, and I’m sure they still do today, but there is one thing I’m not sure is done anymore.  When we were kids, after supper on Valentines day, we’d make out cards for all in our community and sneak around door to door.  We’d slip the appropriate card under the door and then knock and run and hide.  Once we heard the door open and close off we’d go to the next house.

I have no idea where this tradition came from, or if its still carried on, but its a part of my growing up I’ll always remember.

Settlements of the Past

Grave Markers

Grave Markers (Picture by Eric Cooper)

Just a short post to followup on my mention of the cemetery at the brickyard in Snook’s Harbour.  Years and years ago it appears there was a settlement here called Sooley’s Brook.  I can’t really recall it being talked about in my generation, but like a lot of things, the people who know about things assume everyone does.  The book Random Island Pioneers makes a quick reference to the community, but that’s all I can see about it there.  I did find this one link to transcribed data from something called McAlpine’s Directory from 1894-97 referencing a Moses Strong living there.

Eric took a couple pictures today for me of the site, which was apparently a Church of England graveyard, and couple of the old long markers we used to see on graves.  I really don’t know if those have meaning, but if you know please share!

I’m sure there are lots of other small cemeteries around back home too with their own history, if you know of any please share the pictures and stories with me!

Random Island Industry

UPDATE: Just found a link with some history of the Milton Brickyard, and comments on our own at clarenville.newfoundland.ws

Snook's Harbour Brickyard (Photo by Eric Cooper)

Snook’s Harbour Brickyard (Photo by Eric Cooper)

I’m sure many of the younger generation on the island are in the dark about the fact that in past years, there were, if not thriving, at least operating businesses, making use of local products.  Yes, many many people had sawmills and some even operated as a going concern till recently at least, and I’m sure I’ll talk more about mills later.  But back in the early 1900’s up till the early 50’s there were for a time two brickyards on the island, one in Elliott’s Cove and one in Snook’s Harbour.

I remember Dad telling me about his first job being at the brickyard, 10 cents an hour for 10 hour days.  Back in those days the owner was as much your bank as your employer too, Dad also told me the story of wanting a bike, so rather than actually buying it, his boss Uncle At Smith got it for him out of his wages.

The brickyard supplied brick for all the locals, I know our well was lined with brick from Snook’s Harbour, and our chimney was made from it as well.  Looking closely at the picture you can see shards of brick amongst the snow on the shore (yes I know its hard not to look at the view, see how tough we had it scenery wise?).

When I was younger it was easy to find full bricks, maybe slightly imperfect scattered on the shore with the Smith name stamped in them.  I had one as a kind of souvenir in our house back home, wish I had thought to keep it now, those keepsakes mean more as you get older I find. There were also remnants of equipment to be seen.  I’m sure more of this has washed away or grown over over the years.

The Snook’s Harbour brickyard area was also home to some people, I’m not sure it it ever had a name as a community, but there is a small graveyard near there.  I’m sure someone reading can give me more details (and I’ll try to look them up later).  I’ll update this if I ever get info.

View from Brickyard Area (Picture by Eric Cooper)

View from Brickyard Area (Picture by Eric Cooper)

Elliott’s Cove brickyard too had remnants, but were harder to find as that yard closed much earlier.  I’m sure its still worth a visit to the curious or nostalgic though.  Adding another view from the Snook’s Harbour brickyard here, just because.  Enjoy the view, and thanks Eric!

The Old Wood Stove

The huge storm back home in Newfoundland got me thinking about how nice it is to be hunkered down with a nice wood fire when a raging blizzard blows around outside.

There was always just something different about the heat, hearing the wood crackling and popping.  When I was younger, most everyone had an old wood range similar to this one in their kitchen, with a wood box nearby.  I can still remember the names things had, damper, lifter, poker.

We’d open up the firebox either with the damper on the top, or from the door in front to feed in wood and slabs.  The oven would be stogged with bread baking nearly every day, and water on the side in the tank staying warm for washing, or whatever else.

The kettle was always on, and always full, and ready for a cup of tea, and underneath the oven, our ski-doo boots would be warming or drying after we’d come in from sliding on the old coaster, or making forts and tunnels in the drifts.  Up top our mitts and socks and vamps would likely be drying in the warmer.

One of the dampers often had multiple rings, and we’d have one open with the old wire handheld toaster over the top, toasting some of the fresh homemade bread and coating it with butter and molasses.

Seems like others remember too, I saw this range when I was looking at appliances this past fall.  Nice to be able to keep the old alive with the new, though a bit out of my price range.